Genoa is a vertical city that climbs from the harbor up into the hills. The caruggi (medieval alleys) of Europe's biggest old town hide UNESCO palaces, artisan shops and the best fried seafood in Italy. The Aquarium is the largest in the Mediterranean.
Genoa has a split personality that totally works: Renzo Piano's slick redesigned Old Port with the Aquarium and Biosphere, and the thousand-year-old historic center with baroque churches and palatial merchant homes. From here, Cinque Terre and Portofino are easy day trips by train.
Spring and fall are perfect. Summer gets hot and humid but the beaches at Nervi and Boccadasse save the day. Winter stays mild.
Real-deal Genovese pesto (made with a mortar, not a blender), Recco-style focaccia oozing cheese, trofie al pesto, farinata, fritto misto and cappon magro. Genoa is the undisputed focaccia capital of Italy.
Caruggi for the medieval old town maze. Old Port for the Aquarium and waterfront. Via Garibaldi for UNESCO palace-hopping. Boccadasse for a picture-perfect fishing village. Nervi for cliffside walks.
Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) is just 4 miles from downtown. Volabus to Brignole station in 30 minutes. Trains run to Cinque Terre (1h), Milan (90 min) and Turin (105 min).